How to make sure your cat is never lost again.


ORIGINALLY POSTED ON KATZENWORLD As Guest post

https://katzenworld.co.uk/2016/01/30/guest-post-lost-cat-recovery-tips-part-1-prevention/


Have you recovered a lost cat and think a GPS cat tracker is the magic wand so it never happens again? Think twice. There is so much more to it than that, Lost cats are harder to recover than dogs and require special techniques beyond flyers on posts and a visit to the shelter. Take these steps to prevent your cat from ever going missing. This emergency situation can happen to even the best and most careful owners.



PREPARE A LOST CAT KIT Store photos, microchip number and a mock-up lost cat flyer where they’re easy to access. Should you ever need them, this kit will save you precious time and stress. Get a good side view standing phot of your cat in case you veer need it for flyers.


The best preparation is to at least skim the ebook and video “How to Find a Lost Cat” so you can swing into action immediately and know the appropriate steps for you.





HAVE THE SEARCH ZONE READY If you have an indoor- only cat, be ready with a map of where to search. With indoor cats who escape, they are most often hiding within a 250-foot radius of the escape point. Outdoor access cats have a larger territory, so they are going to be usually within a 500-foot radius. Use this mapping tool to outline your home area and search circle so you are ready if they get out.


SAFE TRANSPORT This sounds basic, but you’d be surprised how many pet owners put their cats at risk. A cat inside a car can escape when involved in a traffic accident, or jump out prematurely when a door is opened (see the case of this cat slipping out at gas station at night). Cat carriers have been known to break open during traffic accidents, in vet parking lots, and on conveyor belts at airports. No matter how crabby your cat becomes with confinement, make sure you transport him/her in a secure carrier.

HAVE PHOTOS READY Keep a recent photo of your cat on hand showing their face and body markings in case you need the photo for a lost cat flyer and poster.

r situation and the common mistakes to avoid (like putting out food or cat litter).


GPS TRACKER A new device we’ve had good reports on that lets you know on your phone where your cat is at all times. This is good not only if your cat is indoor only and gets out, but also for those adventurous cats who like to roam, but you need to know where they are in case they miss a meal. The “Nuzzle” is in development, but the device below shows the area and your cat’s time and date. There are several devices on the market including the Loca8ur but based on my clients’ lost cats, I’ve found that this one seems to be the best in terms of finding a cat’s exact location.


COLLAR & MICROCHIP Even if you never let your cat out, you never know when an emergency will happen and your cat is lost. A visitor may leave the door open, cat carriers can break, a visitor could leave a window open or a burglar could break into your home, leaving the door open for your cat to escape outside. Paramedics could have to go to your or a relative’s home, and leave the door open during an emergency procedure.

We’vee even seen pets ejected from cars in traffic accidents. Most people never think these events are all unlikely. But even indoor-only cats should wear a collar, tag and microchip because if they escape outside, they’re at risk of ultimately ending up in an animal shelter long after you have stopped searching.

Use a breakaway collar or a stretchy cat collar with Velcro that a cat can back out of if it becomes snagged.

Micro-chipping is equivalent to implanting a serial number in your pet as a means to return property to their rightful owner. Microchips are not GPS trackers they are for Identification, detectable with a microchip scanner used by shelters, veterinarians, and rescue groups. Make sure your cat is micro-chipped and especially make sure that chip is registered to YOU at your CURRENT address and phone number.

PROOF OF OWNERSHIP Be able to demonstrate proof that you own your cat, as there is no guarantee the person who finds your pet will be willing to give it back to you. You will need to have something to show an officer to prove that this animal belongs to you. The best method to show proof of ownership is to have your pet microchipped. Check with your local shelter, rescue groups, and veterinarians to have this simple procedure performed (a shot where a microchip the size of a rice grain is implanted under your pet’s skin). If your pet has any special markings, markings inside their mouth, scars, tattoos, etc., photograph these areas and keep these photos in a special location with your cat’s vet records.


KEEP PHOTOS WITH YOUR VET It is a good idea to keep a set of records and current pet photos with your veterinarian (they can be attached to your pet’s file). This way, your pet’s photo will be available should your home be destroyed (during fire or flood) or if the photos you kept at home get lost or destroyed.


THANKSGIVING, NEW YEAR’S EVE AND JULY 4TH There are the main days of the year when your cat is especially at risk of escaping. Put your cat in a safe room with all creature comforts and lots of places to hide and blankets to drown out noise and keep them feeling safe from the sounds of fireworks parties and strangers.

BE NEIGHBORLY Make sure your neighbors know you have a cat whether your cat is indoor only or outdoor access. That way, if your cat ever escapes they will know who it belongs to and will be more likely to rescue and return it to you when they see it. Also, being a good neighbor will increase the chances that your neighbors will be your friends when your pet becomes lost. If your cat routinely roams and stalks birds or poops on your neighbor’s property, make sure you have preempted any complaints by asking neighbors to let you know if your cat is a problem for them in any way. Be a responsible cat owner.


SECURE YOUR PROPERTY Check carefully along perimeter of your fence for spaces or holes that you can fit a hand or fist into. Cats can get through tiny spaces, so add rocks or pack dirt to close them up. You’ll prevent your cat’s potential escape, as well as keep other critters from popping under for a visit. For those who let their cats out into the backyard, be warned; I’ve had many cases of cats who “always stayed in the backyard” yet vanished. Cats can jump five times their height, so unless you have secured the holes AND have a catio or roll-top fence, your cat may unpleasantly surprise you with ninja escape abilities.


Look carefully from a low level: push on all boards to see if any are loose. Humans typically look downward and don’t see what our pets see. Pets have the time and interest to look, poke, and push in their efforts to escape. From their level, they may have found a small hole or loose board you did not see.

Remove any items leaning on or next to your fence. Woodpiles, garbage containers, kid toys, boxes, etc. next to a fence are a great springboard for cats to get over any fence, so make sure you are not offering an easy route out.


TRAIN YOUR CAT to come when you call, let you pick him up when outside and to enter a baited humane trap. Humane traps are one of the primary tools to recover an indoor-only cat. If you know that your cat will never be allowed free access out- doors, then teach your cat that humane traps = food and safety.

Simply get a humane trap (available here) and prop open both ends with a bungee cord and feed your cat inside the trap every day for a week until he enters and leaves without fear. If your cat should ever escape outdoors, you will increase your chances of recovery as your cat associates traps with food and is not afraid to enter. DO NOT train your cat to enter a trap if you live in an apartment complex in case the manager or a pest company sets up traps to remove feral cats.

COLLECT AND STORE SCENT & DNA In the event your cat becomes lost and you need an animal trained to track lost pets, you’ll want to have a clean unadulterated sample of your pet’s scent. Save whiskers especially as they have a root attached which can be used to determine DNA. If no whiskers are available, put on a rubber glove, use a sterile gauze pad and wipe your pet’s body – wipe back, tummy, and mouth. Place the gauze pad inside a plastic bag. Write the date and your pet’s name on the outside of the bag. Try to have your cat’s DNA on hand in case it’s needed for making a positive ID. Collect a whisker, toenail clippings, and a few hairs that you have pulled from your pet which include the root. Shed hairs will not do– you need the root (which contains the DNA). Place all of these AND your gauze pad into the bag and place the bag in the back of your freezer. If you have multiple pets, make separate bags for each of them.

BIRD ALERTS Should your cat ever escape, listen to the birds. They will issue raucous alarm sounds to let others know there is a predator in the area. Even if you just want to know where your outdoor acess cat is at the moment, learn to listen to bird language to know when your cat has been spotted by these air spies. Blue jays and mockingbirds are very vocal when they spot a cat and make a specific call you can learn and tune into. Examples of bird alarms on cats are included in the ebook, How to Find a Lost Cat as well as a chapter on tracking, coyote signs and clue assessment.



Kim Freeman “The Cat Detective”

Facebook Lost Cat recovery stories

Thank you Kim for sharing your helpful tips. We look forward to Part 2 where you’ll cover what to do if your beloved kitty actually escapes.

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